[名人品酒]誰讓澳洲葡萄酒大師傾迷20年!?

誰讓澳洲葡萄酒大師傾迷20年!?

澳洲 蕭/史密斯酒莊

  澳洲的蕭/史密斯酒莊(Shaw + Smith)，是澳洲最具影響力的葡萄酒大師詹姆士．哈樂代 (James Halliday)最為推崇的酒莊之一，他每年的澳洲品酒筆記(Australian Wine Companion)中，均給予蕭/史密斯酒莊與旗下酒款相當高的評價，去年(2008)底詹姆士．哈樂代來台參訪，更指定使用蕭/史密斯的希哈酒款( Shaw + Smith Shiraz)，作為專業研討會的用酒之ㄧ。
  今年蕭/史密斯酒莊成立20週年，詹姆士．哈樂代特別於七月中出刊的Weekend Australian雜誌上發表了關於蕭/史密斯酒莊的文章，也為目前仍未上市的最新年份酒款下了評語及評分！

以下文章原文截自【James Halliday, The Weekend Australian July 18-19, 2009】

澳洲蕭/史密斯酒莊最近慶祝了他們成軍20週年。莊主馬丁．蕭(Martin Shaw)與麥可．希爾史密斯(Michael Hill Smith)，從成立的第一天起，不僅成功地打下市場，同時也樹立了他們的聲望。馬丁是位言語低調，極其專注且特立獨行的釀酒師，而表親麥可則是位能言善道的行銷高手，兩個人在釀酒事業上可說是平起平坐。
  回顧酒莊的歷程，1990年他們開始在Wirra Wirra釀製了第一個年份的葡萄酒，首釀年份甫問世即獲得好評，之後於Petaluma釀酒長達九年時光，這段期間他們仍持續下功夫研發，不斷調整葡萄種植與釀製手法，以使酒質更趨完美。2000年他們終於在Balhannah建立了自有葡萄園，麥可曾如此描述他與合夥人的關係：「比起表親，我們更像是兄弟。」即使他用「雙胞胎」來形容他們兩人的密切程度，也不會有任何人提出反對意見。
  蕭/史密斯酒莊的首釀年份，僅生產了白蘇維濃與夏多內兩種酒款。夏多內可說是一時之選，而白蘇維濃也不惶多讓，從此成了酒莊的「標竿酒款」。2000年酒莊遷移至Balhannah的自有葡萄園，許多關鍵性的發展都在此醞釀，最顯而易見的改變就是M3夏多內的誕生。她取代了原本的夏多內酒款，改良後的M3夏多內不論在質地、結構或複雜度都更為優異出色。
  蕭/史密斯酒莊曾短暫釀製梅洛，之後於2002年孕育第一款希哈，此酒款一上市即光芒四射，備受矚目。2006年他們更嘗試生產黑皮諾，2007年於千挑萬選的果園上成功產出了一批驚世之作，為幾個月後正式上市的黑皮諾酒款埋下伏筆。
  然而，時至今日，白蘇維濃仍然是蕭/史密斯酒莊的標竿之作。當被問及有關鄰近產區—紐西蘭的白蘇維濃時，麥可的複雜心情溢於言表，他認為紐西蘭擁有風格鮮明、獨具優勢的自然條件，也扮演著將白蘇維濃普及化的重要角色，但實在無法認同他們的定價哲學。

Shaw + Smith recently celebrated its 20th vintage, and did so in the style that has marked the business and its owners, Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith, since day one. Shaw is the quietly spoken but almost eerily intense and focused winemaker,cousin Michael Hill Smith the gregarious marketer who, behind the façade, is equally driven.
Recounting the sequence, from its first vintage in a corner of Wirra Wirra in 1990, then nine years at Petaluma before opening their winery at Balhannah, Michael Hill Smith observed, “We are more like brothers than cousins.” Even if he had said twins, nobody would have argued.
That first vintage was of two varietals, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, the latter an obvious choice, the former well in front of the game. It has also been the flagbearer ever since, more of which anon. While their time at Petaluma was happy (Martin Shaw working with Brian Croser as winemaker for eight years), the move to their own winery in 2000 was pivotal, likewise the progressive development of their own vineyards. The most tangible and immediate change was the introduction of their M3 Chardonnay, replacing the earlier reserve, and with significantly greater textural and structural complexity. WHILE THE FIRST VINTAGE RECEIVED MUCH ACCLAIM, THEY HAVE NOT HESITATED TO FINE-TUNE THE VITICULTURAL AND WINEMAKING INPUTS OVER THE ENSUING NINE YEARS, INTRODUCING NEW CLONES AND INCREASING THE USE OF WILD YEAST.
After a brief flirtation with merlot , they introduced Shiraz in 2002, which has threatened to upstage its older siblings. In 2006 they put their tow in the water with an estate-grown pinot noir, the site carefully chosen, and in 2007 produced 200 dozen of an impressive cellar-door release, foreshadowing the first full-scale release of the ‘08 in a few months’ time. But for the time being at least, sauvignon blanc remains the leader of the Shaw + Smith band. Asked the obvious question about New Zealand sauvignon blanc makers adopting a sell-at-all-price philosophy, Michael Hill Smith’s mixed emotions are obvious when he says: “I’ll be forever grateful for the role New Zealand has played in popularising sauvignon blanc. What I don’t understand is why, having such a strong internationally recognised style , they are hell-bent on committing vinous harakiri.” Sauvignon blanc, like Riesling and (most) Semillon, is a great contribution to cash flow, and is less expensive to make. “In a perfect world, sell out by February,” muses Hill Smith, and even in this less-than-perfect world adds, “We’re just on budget.”

James Halliday, The Weekend Australian July 18-19, 2009

2009  S+S Sauvignon Blanc
手工精選果實，汁液添入多種酵母進行冷發酵。釋放繽紛的柑橘與草本香氣，口感鮮活，餘韻持久，堪稱極品佳釀中的極品年份！JH  96 分。

The grapes are hand-picked (leaving sunburnt or otherwise defective bunches unpicked), must-chilled and cold-fermented with various yeasts, with one month lees contact. Simple. It has a highly aromatic and scented bouquet of nettle, citrus and herb, the vibrant palate with great thrust and persistence.A distinguished vintage of a distinguished line. 96/100

2008  S+S M3 Chardonnay
釋放油桃、白桃等果香與隱約的柑橘氣味，帶出活潑、鮮明的綿長口感，法國橡木風格內斂呈現。M3 夏多內又一進化之作。JH  96 分。

08  S+S M3 Chardonnay
The evolution of the wine continues with 50 per cent Dijonclones, 60 per cent wild ferment (up from 20 per cent in 2005, the first venture into wild yeast). It has a fragrant bouquet of nectarine, white peach and a hint of citrus rind leading into a vibrant, fresh and very long palate; you know the French oak is there, but it speaks very quietly. 96/100

2007  S+S Shiraz
果實部分取自Balhannah ，部分取自較溫暖的Macclesfield 地區。不同於06年份，此年份完全不具維歐涅成分，獲頒2009 Decanter 世界葡萄酒大賞「最佳澳洲隆河原生種」大獎。深紫紅色酒澤，高雅的香氣，帶出此中厚酒體酒款的黑色果味及高品質橡木氣息，具有多層次的風味與完美的均衡度！JH  96 分。

Partly made from estate-grown grapes at Balhannah, and partly from a warmer site at Macclesfield; unlike the ‘06, no viognier has been included. Trophy 2009 Decanter World Wine Awards Best Australian Red Rhône Varietal over £10. Deep crimson-purple; a classy bouquet promises spicy black fruits and quality oak which the medium to full-bodied palate delivers in spades, with layers of flavour and perfect balance; right up there with the great ’06. 96/100